2004

December
November

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You'll find girlie bars in their hundreds, transvestite cabarets, shops selling knock-off CDs and designer wear, touts encouraging you to enter drinking establishments of dubious repute, fish and chip shops and tuk-tuk drivers all too willing to rip you off as you try to get back into town after a night at the Muay Thai boxing.

It's boisterous and a lot of fun - for a day or two. Then the maelstrom becomes a little tiring, and tiresome.

Fortunately, Patong and its gaudy smaller brothers, Karon and Kata, are not the only game in town when it comes to beach holidays in Phuket.

Ladies and gentlemen, let me introduce you to Kamala, a small former fishing village just a few kilometres north of Patong but with a very different vibe.

Kamala, home to just a couple of thousand people (a mix of Buddhists, Muslims and a scattering of expats), is surrounded on three sides by green hills and tropical rainforest, the other side fronts the bright blue Andaman Sea.

The mood here is decidedly leisurely. There are no beach shacks left but there are several family owned homestays and guesthouses, and the choice ranges from rooms with fans to rent for 250 baht a night, to plush resorts with multiple swimming pools and several bars.

Kamala was among the worst hit beaches by the tsunami and there's still some catch-up construction work going on, but you'll struggle to find anywhere better suited to a leisurely week in pursuit of nothing more than peace and quiet.

The beach is long and clean. You'll find massage ladies and a couple of young guys touting boat trips, but some mornings in December it seemed as if there were more colourful fishing boats moored just off shore than there were tourists lounging on the sand.

I stayed at Kamala Dreams, a small, family-owned beachfront property that offers all life's little luxuries. Paradise at a pauper's price.

Kamala Dreams, run by Lumduan Jacobs and her Dutch husband Jan, was almost destroyed by the tsunami (and four family members were lost) but is back in business better than ever, following the addition of a lovely swimming pool that overlooks the ocean and a second level of studio apartments; all with air-conditioning, kitchenettes, microwave, mini-fridge and satellite TV. All the large rooms overlook the pool or beach and the hotel offers direct access to the beach.

Kamala Dreams is also home to the Charoen Dreams seafood restaurant, which displays the catch of the day each night and serves some excellent local specialities. As is the case all over Phuket, you have to insist on your food being made spicy. The many German and Scandinavian visitors have less tolerant palates than Australians.

Locals say tourists had been generally slow to return to Kamala after the scenes of devastation there were beamed around the world on television.

"CNN and the BBC spent weeks here telling people how bad the situation was, but they haven't been back to show how we have recovered," says Jan Jacobs.

Australians have contributed to the recovery, with the Backyard Blitz team helping with the rebuilding of the Wat Baan Kamala temple and designing exquisite gardens that are enjoyed by the resident Buddhist monks and many visitors.

The temple was almost washed away by the raging waters and rebuilding has been financed largely by donations.

There's even an Australian bar in town, albeit a very small one. Danny Muller, once of Liverpool, is host at the Little Aussie Bar, a cosy establishment with a handful of bar stools and two or three friendly barmaids.

So how did I spend my days? Simple really. I'd have a stroll along the beach most mornings, read for a couple of hours beside the pool, have a light lunch at Sweet Dreams down the road, have a daily foot or back and shoulder massage from Onsa at the Mew massage place (also just down the road), check some emails (Kamala Internet and Jackie Travel both have fast connections), read the local papers and then prepare for dinner with a couple of beers.

There are plenty of dining choices from the giant Argentine steakhouse to hole-in-the-wall noodle places. Rockfish is the upmarket choice in Kamala. Voted best restaurant in Phuket last year it serves Asian-influenced fusion food and boasts spectacular views of Kamala Bay. If you dine here you'll probably meet Sausage, a former beach dog that survived the tsunami and now thinks he is in charge.

Sometimes I popped into the Moon Bar, owned by Nikom "Tuk" Ploykhao and his girlfriend, who make some of the best banana daiquiris I've ever tasted.

Tuk is a tsunami survivor, rescued from the raging waters by a Swedish couple. He lived in a tent for two months while rebuilding his business.

Everyone in Kamala is delighted to see the tourists returning, particularly as the recovery in other parts of Thailand, especially Khao Lak, has been far slower. There's even a large sign hung along the main drag thanking visitors for coming back.

At Summer Dreams, Anna Timakorn, a shy, smiling 25-year-old who lost her mother and pet dog to the tsunami, explains how the locals feel.

"Just about everyone in Kamala makes their living from tourism," she says. "My family relies on the income from this restaurant and it is sad when we sit here and there are no customers."

By mid-December Anna's smile had become a grin. The visitors were returning.

Her joy was reflected right along the main street. Even the women servicing the rooms at Kamala Dreams had broad grins on their faces.

If you want to explore, perhaps visit Phuket Town or the Kamala Fantasea theme park; you can rent motorbikes just about anywhere. The Kamala tuk-tuk drivers are an honest bunch and will take you wherever you want to go.

For a slow-moving experience, you can take a sawngthaew (open-air taxi-truck) from Kamala to Phuket Town, but the 20-kilometre trip will take you a couple of hours and leave you with an aching back.

Far more relaxing is a scuba diving excursion. There are a couple of operators in Kamala.

If, perchance, Kamala does get a little too quiet for your blood, Patong is just six kilometres away (about 250 baht by tuk-tuk).

If you really must spend a couple of days in Patong and you are on a tight budget, the Stoney Monday Oasis Hotel is about 350 metres from the beach and offers clean rooms and good service at budget prices.

The Aussie Bar on Soi Bangla is decidedly boisterous but the beers and cocktails are icy cold and the service is great (complimentary chilled napkins if you even look like you are sweating).

Restaurant 6 serves terrific food (pad Thai and barbecued prawns for 200 baht) and the Thailand Orchid is an affordable day spa where I enjoyed an hour-long foot massage, followed by a one-hour body massage, all for 750 baht. Come to think of it, Patong isn't too bad at all. But it's not Kamala.

Koh Tao and Koh Nangyuan Snorkeling Trip
For the combination of fantastic scenery above and below the water this tour is simply a must. While on the island of Koh Nang Yuan, relax and unwind by swimming, snorkeling or plain old fashioned sunbathing! Visit Koh Tao - one of the most scenic places for diving and snorkeling in the Gulf of Thailand especially along Aow Leuk or Leam Tien beaches. Book now for a relaxing day out!