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And with the 60th anniversary of the coronation of
King
Bhumibol Adulyadej on June 12 and the Thai New Year celebration in
mid-April, this spring is a good time to plan a trip.
Great silk shopping can be found in central
Bangkok, but if you really want
to go to the source, you've got to hit the road and head to the village of
Pak Thong Chai.
 Three hours north of Bangkok, Pak Thong Chai lies at the gateway to the
northeastern
Isaan region of Thailand, better known as the Land of Silk. It
is in Isaan's many tambons, or villages, that the traditional crafts of
hand-spinning and hand-weaving have been most lovingly preserved.
Of these villages, several stand out: Ban Khwao, Ban Siew Noi and Pak Thong
Chai, where luxury silk sellers have factories and also employ a small army
of independent weavers.
To walk the streets of Pak Thong Chai by day is to be engulfed by the
liveliness of its business activity: This is a successful and wealthy
tambon. (All its success, however, has not brought it an international-class
hotel, so if you plan to stay in the region, you are better off in nearby
Nakhon Ratchasima, which boasts one of the region's only five-star hotels.)
It seems as though everyone is working on silk here, whether it is breeding
and raising worms, dyeing thread or weaving meter upon meter of intricate
fabric. In fact, 80 percent of the residents work in silk production, either
at home, in the local factories, or both. Fabric can often be bought
directly from the smaller producers, whose workshops open directly onto the
street, and whose doors are usually wide open during the day.
Bear in mind, however, that most of the residents of Pak Tong Chai speak
little English, and though they are friendly and patient with silk
enthusiasts, this sort of direct shopping may be daunting for the first-time
visitor.
Instead, head to Chatthong Thai Silk, where English is spoken and you will
find fabrics made in town. The first thing you notice as you walk in - after
taking off your shoes and leaving them on the rack outside - is a giant
wooden loom on which a local weaver provides a near-constant demonstration.
The rhythmic shunting and clacking of the shuttle is perfect music to shop
by.
Fabric can be purchased by the meter in a staggering number of colors and
designs. Though the prices are comparable to what you might find at a market
in Bangkok, here you are assured of getting high-quality, handmade local
silk. The friendly staff readily advise on how many meters of fabric it will
take one of the ubiquitous tailors in Bangkok to make a dress. Or a suit. Or
a simple shirt. (5, 10, and 2, respectively.)
Chatthong also offers ready-to-wear garments, from scarves and shawls to
cabana wear and silk work pants, which Thai farmers traditionally wore for
their durability.
If a trip to the country won't fit into your plans, there are many good
opportunities to shop for handmade silk in downtown Bangkok. Shinawatra
Thai, on Rama IV Road, is a virtual department store of silk with its own
in-house tailors. It offers an impressive collection of silk goods,
including a line of Barbie dolls dressed in the traditional court dress of
King Rama V. Be prepared to pay top dollar for even the most simple of
scarves and ties, which run well above 1,000 baht, or $25.
Then there is the flagship
Jim Thompson
shop on nearby Surawong Road. This
four-level behemoth has silk things for every occasion, from ties to custom
furniture, and enough patterned silk pillows to cushion even the giant
reclining Buddha at Wat Pho.
If modern silk is your cup of tea, there is Pretty Little Things, a boutique
shop across the street from the Siam Paragon, an immense designer shopping
mall that opened in December 2005. This small shop features the
silk-inflected fashions of young designers like Taned Boonprasarn and Suriya
Suep-Ouan; (tel.: +661-684-3260).
Getting there:The nearest city, Nakhon Ratchasima, also known as Korat, can
be reached by air-conditioned bus or train. From there you can rent a car or
take a local bus, which leaves every half-hour for Pak Thong Chai.
Where to stay:Sima Thani Hotel, a five-star hotel in what used to be a
Sheraton Hotel, is in central Korat. Car rentals can be arranged through the
concierge; (tel.: +66-44-213100; fax: +66- 44-213121).
Where to eat: Small restaurants abound in Pak Thong Chai and Korat. Ask for
kanom-jin, a local noodle dish that is almost as famous as the local silk.
For exquisite modern Thai food in downtown Bangkok, try Baan Khanitha, a
high-end restaurant and art gallery (www.baan-khanitha.com).
What to else do: Visit the Korat's Thao Surani memorial, a much-worshipped
monument that is believed to grant wishes, or take a trip to the nearby
ruins at Prasat Hin Pai Mai.
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