Gourmet garden in Bangkok

Sukhumvit's latest eatery impresses with immaculate foie gras and delightful desserts

Vanniya Sriangura

Ici : 3rd floor, Metha Wattana Building : Sukhumvit Soi 19 : Tel 02-651-0371 : Open daily except Tuesday, from 11am-11pm :

After an impressive visit to Ici last week, I had the urge to gather the names of restaurants I've visited over the years _ but only the ones I really loved _ and put together a list of my personal favourites. Of course, that list would include Ici.

Open for only three weeks, Ici may be a new kid on the block, but it is absolutely not an innocent one. While it usually takes many years of experience for a restaurant to create the excellent taste Ici has to offer, the reason behind the restaurant's professionalism is not surprising _ owner Jakri Rujirat is not new to the business or the kitchen.

Hua Hin

Chiang Mai

Bangkok

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Having graduated with a culinary degree from France, Jakri has been working in food and beverage management at several five and six star hotels and resorts in Thailand and overseas for more than a decade. His resume includes the Four Seasons in Chiang Mai, Shangri-La Bangkok and Anantara Hua Hin, for examples.

Located on the third floor of the newly-built Metha Wattana building Ici takes up the entire top floor. It's hard to say whether the indoor dining room is more appealing than the outdoor garden alfresco, or vice versa, as they are both very lovely. The air-conditioned dining area, which comfortably seats 50 diners, is stylish with distinctive contemporary furniture and a brown and mustard colour scheme. The trendy interior is enhanced with floor-to-ceiling glass windows that allows diners to enjoy a view of the neatly arranged tropical garden that features more than 30 varieties of plants and flowers.

Not long after we were seated, the restaurant's complimentary starter arrived _ a variety of bread with four dips that included liver paste, mushroom, aioli garlic mayonnaise and tomato salsa. The dips were utterly scrumptious, but I had to hold back on the bread to ensure that I still had room left in my stomach for the "real" dishes.

For an appetiser, if you love foie gras, don't hesitate to order it pan-seared with port wine reduction flavoured raspberry sauce (560 baht). This item doesn't just appear on the menu simply because it is "fashionable" _ it was truly worth ordering and, in fact, beyond criticism. Three pieces of perfectly seared goose liver arrived on a bed of rocket salad with a marvellous and pungent sauce.

Helping the lunch proceed even more smoothly was fresh clear tomato soup with Thai barley (100 baht). Served piping hot, this clear broth with barley and finely diced tomato was pleasant.

The restaurant recommended the lemongrass crusted rack of lamb (590 baht) for a main course. Served with a generous portion of fried and seasoned fingerling potatoes and steamed buttered vegetables, Ici's dish wasn't your typical rack of lamb with gravy and mint jelly. Three decent-sized racks of lamb were coated and seasoned with lemongrass crusting and salt before being grilled. The result? Flavourful and very juicy pieces of meat _ and no need for mint jelly.

If you are one of those people who shun red meat, Ici also has several fish and seafood dishes on offer. Steamed salmon and white snapper net on spinach mousse and tomato beurre blanc (420 baht), is one of the creations the restaurant is more proud of.

Though the restaurant boasts western cuisine, Hainanese chicken rice (140 baht) seemed to be one of the most ordered dishes during my lunchtime visit. Described on the menu as "simply the best recipe in town", I had to ask the owner to explain this grand claim. Instead of giving an answer, however, he insisted that I try it. A plateful of chunky chicken meat accompanied by a large portion of rice and a big bowl of soup was served with three sauces, which is typical of upscale chicken rice. The dish was a marvellous choice for lunch considering its great quality and reasonable price.

Sweet-toothers will never leave Ici unsatisfied. More than 10 selections of European classics like ice cream and sorbet, as well as some clever new creations, are available. I went for Ici's signature braised stuffed lotus root with black sticky rice, young coconut syrup and ice cream (120 baht). As advertised, thick slices of braised lotus root with black sticky rice stuffing came bathed in the not-too-sweet coconut syrup, which intermingled fantastically with the vanilla ice cream. It was delightful. Ici also has a long list of drinks including wines, cocktails and non-alcoholic choices such as fresh fruit shakes.

You can arrive at Ici conveniently by either driving or taking the BTS or subway (in both cases getting off at Asoke). Starting at Robinson department store at the mouth of the soi, the restaurant is only 100 metres down Sukhumvit Soi 19 and on your left. Thankfully, there is adequate parking space.