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In what used to be a notorious drug trafficking region, a serene space
has sprung up offering beauty for the jaded soul and rest for the weary
mind. CHIN MUI YOON explores the architecture and design of an exotic spa
and resort.
THE Anantara Resort & Spa Golden Triangle is likely the only one in Asia,
or maybe even the world, that has a swimming pool overlooking three nations.
The resort is located in Thailand’s northernmost province of Chiang Rai,
which is part of the Golden Triangle, that formless region famed for its
narcotics bazaar, which is shared between Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Long
notorious as the crossroads for the multibillion-dollar international trade
in illicit drugs and as the playground of warlords controlling opium
production, the area is today a calm picture of misty mountains and rice
fields.
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 Anantara
Resort & Spa Golden Triangle Chiang Rai ****
The Anantara Resort & Spa Golden Triangle is located in a superb northern
hill resort in the heart of Mekong Region at the Golden Triangle where the
borders of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. The location of Anantara Resort
& Spa Golden Triangle is absolutely ideal for sightseeing as many
attractions and amusements surround it. The resort offers comfortable rooms
with all facilities. The spirit of Thailand is elegantly defined with guest
rooms providing a private, amenity-filled oasis and services delivered in
the gracious tradition. |
As dawn casts its golden rays across the region, the mist-swirled forest
of northern Thailand unveils itself while the mighty Mekong River glistens
gold in the distance, mere miles from the resort’s pool. From dawn till
dusk, a constant hum of “long tail” boats along the Mekong speaks of trade
and travel thriving between the countries today. The riskiest activities now
are elephant trekking through teak forests and overspending?.
Built 10 years ago, the resort was owned by the London-based Le Meridien
global hotel group. Anantara, a Thai chain of luxurious resorts and spas,
took over management of the spa and reopened it in October 2003. It is
regarded as one of Thailand’s most distinctive resorts as it represents the
country’s colourful northern culture and lifestyle.
“This is a golden age for Anantara as it is sited in a rare location
served by the historic Mekong River,” says resort general manager Caroline
Dey.
“The combination of cultures and borders makes this one of Thailand’s,
and even the region’s, most amazing resorts. You can just sit by the pool
sipping a cup of lemongrass tea and safely and comfortably look across to
turbulent Myanmar and Laos while being on Thai soil.
“Just 10km away is the 14th century town of Chiang Saen with its
preserved artefacts. Across from our entrance is the Hall of Opium Museum
while in the daily morning markets, you’ll find hill tribe people as well as
folk from around the river trading.
“The area is like Chiangmai 10 years ago. People can experience an
alluring juxtaposition of past and present here.”
Although gone are the lethal days of the Golden Triangle, accents of its
fascinating past are found throughout the Anantara.
The resort hugs a ridge overlooking a jungle through which several rivers
run. The 90-room property is designed across more than 60ha of land that
includes landscaped gardens, padi fields and virgin jungle.
The glory of the ancient 13th century northern Thai kingdom of Lanna is
carefully captured alongside the region’s history, combining traditions with
stylish amenities. As a result, the resort practically exudes the essence of
the exotic East that Western tourists would be willing to fly thousands of
miles to experience.
Celebrated Californian landscape architect Bill Bensley worked with John
D. Lightbody of Bangkok-based Abacus Design Co. Lightbody chose local arts
and crafts that reflect the area’s Thai, hill tribe, and Buddhist cultures.
“The concept is a contemporary interpretation of classic Thai with a rich
finishing of teakwood,” says Lightbody.
Many features pay tribute to the region’s most recognizable emblems: the
elephant and the poppy flower.
Guests travel towards the resort along a gently curving road shaded by a
row of plum blossoms and are greeted by a pair of trumpeting stone elephants
on the gate’s pillars.
Gentle greetings of sawadee-kah accompanied by the wa gesture (where the
hands are clasped together as if in prayer) instantly convey the warmth and
hospitality the north is famous for.
Guests are ushered into a central courtyard surrounded by rustic-seeming
peach-orange walls. A lily pond reflects the wooden screens set about it
that are painted with scenes of daily life in the style of ancient northern
temples.
The resort’s architecture showcases the Lanna features of open sides and
a flaring, multi-tiered roof. The north’s famous woodcarvings are shown at
their best here, with poppy motifs carved into the V-shaped designs on the
tips of the roofs that are called kalae.
Inside the lobby, the ceiling soars to a magnificent 12m, supported by
teak beams polished to a golden glow. The space is enhanced by equally tall
pillars, and fans and fixtures covered in gilded copper leaf motifs of
poppies and elephants. Again, this follows the style of traditional Thai
temples and palaces that commonly use gold leaf to embellish their
interiors.
A massive wooden candleholder has three elephants supporting its base
that represent strength, wealth and longevity.
In the bedrooms, silks found in most luxury Thai hotels are replaced by
jute and raw cotton for a more rustic feel in keeping with the setting.
Lampshades are made of woven strips of bark from the mulberry tree used
to feed silkworms. The toiletries and beverage boxes are wrapped in dried,
natural fibres of corn, coconut and bamboo leaf.
Guests are often startled by the bathroom, which is not safely hidden
behind a wall; rather, a naughtily designed sliding glass door encases it
affording titillating, hazy outlines of people inside, especially when they
are soaking inside the huge terrazzo tub!
Large, private terraces have comfortable day beds ideal for daydreaming
beneath the cascading red flame vines. There are muslin mosquito nets draped
around the day beds for more privacy.
The resort’s best work of art, however, lies outside the rooms.
The grounds are coloured by the lush greens and flowering plants that
thrive in the cooler climate of the north. Flaming yellow wild sunflowers
join wildly coloured impatiens, African tulip trees, wild orchids, cassias
and roses.
A sala, or Thai pavilion, seems to float in a corner of the aquamarine,
infinity-edged swimming pool. Poppy pod shaped torches are set ablaze here
in the evenings, when enchanting strains from traditional Thai instruments
create a surreal mood.
A closer look at the pool reveals a pattern of poppies created with green
mosaics on its floor. When several large urns by the pool gently gurgle out
water, the poppies suddenly stir under water, looking dreamily like
something one would see under the influence of opium – or so I’m told!
Several large sandstone elephants stand guard by the pool, trunks curled
around water-sprouting, poppy-shaped showerheads.
This could well sum up the Golden Triangle’s transformation: the poppy
flower that once fuelled the region’s greatest trade has been conquered by
time and tourism, and transformed into a symbol of beauty and fascination?.
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