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More bang for the buck in Bangkok
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Bangkok Guide |
For a visit to Bangkok, can you tell me when is the best time of year to go,
whether there are moderately priced but nice hotels near major sites, and if
there is a seaside resort nearby?
-- H.J., Ringoes
You can count on
Bangkok always being hot and sticky, although temperatures
generally fall comfortably into the 70s at night. The driest and coolest
time to go is December, January and February, when the average highs are 88
or 89 degrees and on average there is only one day per month with
significant rain. June through October is wettest, with 10 or more days of
rain each month, but it is possible to enjoy Bangkok even then, as the rain
tends to come in afternoon downpours. The city dries out quickly.
Whenever you go, take lightweight clothing, sunglasses, a hat, sunscreen and
comfortable walking shoes for sprawling
attractions such as Wat Pra Keo and
the Royal Palace. Keep in mind that modest dress is required for temples and
other sacred sites. Once at the Grand Palace I had rolled up the long
sleeves of my light cotton shirt and a palace guard asked me to roll them
down -- turned up was considered disrespectful.
Bangkok has good variety in its lodging, and you can pay hundreds of dollars
a night at a place such as the
Oriental or under $10 at the dives populated
by many backpackers. Fortunately there is a good selection of in-between
hotels as well. The Sukumvit district is known for these, and many are
described in guidebooks aimed at independent travelers, including the Moon,
Lonely Planet, and Rough Guide series. Twice I've stayed at the Royal Hotel,
in the Banglampoo district near the Grand Palace, and found it spacious and
hospitable if a bit frayed. Its nightly rates are less than $50.
At many midrange hotels it may be possible to negotiate a lower rate than
what is first offered, depending on the time of year and how busy the place
is.
Regardless of where you stay, try to work in a meal on the outdoor esplanade
at the
Oriental. The ambience overlooking the Chayo Phraya river is
unforgettable.
Before going, read about the city's river boats and canal boats; they offer
the smoothest and most exciting way to get around the city.
As for beaches,
Pattaya is a two-hour air-conditioned bus ride from Bangkok.
It is a big-time resort town with a tawdry, mass-tourism reputation. Not far
away is the small, bungalow-strewn island of Ko Samet, which may offer more
of what you had in mind.
You can find an extensive description of Pattaya in the Rough Guide to
Thailand's Beaches & Islands, by Paul Gray and Lucy Ridout (Rough Guides,
2nd edition 2004). The guide also has about 90 pages on Bangkok. If you have
the time, there are many other beach destinations that provide a more
charming experience than Pattaya, and they are detailed in the book as well.
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